AromiThis local favorite sits on a lovely, tree-lined street in the residential Vinohrady neighborhood.Au GourmandThis lovely shop (think Prague-does-Ladurée) is a great place for visitors who reached their limit on dumplings and dark meat. One side is dedicated to small sandwiches, quiches and salads, while the other counter abounds with elegant pastries, pastel-hued cookies and homemade ice cream. There’s a small dining space in the center and a garden out back, but it’s also a good spot to shop for a picnic to enjoy in one of Prague’s many gardens and parks. There’s a chocolate store with homemade pralines, truffles and more next door.Bar and BooksAmerican expats who crave a slice of New York can be found at a branch of Bar and Books, where cigar smokers and those who like to linger over co*cktails enjoy the cosseting ambiance of the book-lined room.BellevueThis mainstay is owned by the same group behind as Mlynec and V Zatisi and boasts one of the best views in Prague. Cuisine is traditional Czech with modern innovations.Editors' PicksCafé SavoyReminiscent of the great coffee houses of old, the Café Savoy occupies a renovated Art Nouveau space where the service and crowd are new Prague but the atmosphere evokes old Prague. Among the historic details that harken back to its founding in 1893: balcony seating, elaborate glass chandeliers, an ornate painted ceiling, bentwood chairs and inlaid floors. Great for a hearty breakfast, lunch or dinner, the menu is described as bourgeoise Bohemian, and there is an extensive list of Czech wines.Editors' PicksCotto CrudoLocated in the Four Seasons lobby, though it also has an outside entrance, this restaurant serves modern Italian fare throughout the day. The large bar makes for a good pre-dinner drink and the terrace in warm weather is very pleasant on the river. Menu items range from antipasti to sashimi. The atmosphere feels decidedly un-Prague; in fact the restaurant could easily be located in New York or London.DivinisThe romantic setting of this Italian restaurant, on a quiet street near the Old Town Square, makes it popular with couples and those looking for a quiet, refined meal. Whitewashed-wood floors and white walls give it the air of a well-kept modern farmhouse, and twig-framed mirrors and bottles of wine lining the walls complete the picture.Ebel Coffee HouseSteps from Old Town Square and the tourists gaping at the Astronomical Clock is a little courtyard with some nice shops and a humming coffeehouse (four other Ebel outposts can be found in the area, but this is the main one). Bowls of steaming coffee along with a light lunch menu and English-language newspapers draw a regular expat crowd.EskaThe upscaleEska, a Czech bistro and bakery housed in a converted factory in Prague's Karlin district, received aMichelinBib Gourmand award in 2018.Field RestaurantUsing seasonal ingredients from Czech farmers, the Michelin-starredFieldserves up "free-range dining" in a relaxed and fun atmosphere. Chef Radek Kasparek's creative cuisine is designed to satisfy all the senses.Diners can experience interesting combinations of flavors—sweet, sour, hot andcold can all occupy one dish—while also enjoying great service.The emphasis is on preparing meals from fresh ingredients, so the menu varies from season to season, but quality and flavor are consistently excellent.Grand Café OrientTucked away on the first floor of the House of the Black Madonna, above the store Kubista, this meticulously restored café has a small terrace and lovely banquette seating. It’s a nice spot for a break while touring the museums in Old Town. Lunch consists of light fare (salads and sandwiches); more caloric are the homemade cakes and pastries. The staff is friendly (not a given in Prague) and the old-world setting enchanting.Kampa ParkAustrian owner Nils Jebens has been called the Terence Conran of Prague for the empire of stylish restaurants he’s assembled since moving here in 1994. Kampa Park was his first hit, and it remains at the top of the culinary heap. The resident chefs keep the cuisine lively, with menus like a recent one that highlighted the signature dishes of international masters Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud and Nobu Matsuhisa.Known for the best seafood in the city, the restaurant also has some of the best views, thanks to its location right by the Charles Bridge. Past the photo gallery at the entrance is a bar and dining room with deep-red walls, but it’s the less formal riverside terrace that has the premier tables. Sitting here, it feels like you’re sailing on a wooden boat—one that keeps the iconic bridge always in view. In winter, heat lamps and lap blankets keep you warm as you dig into sophisticated dishes like seared foie gras with pineapple chutney; and olive oil–poached halibut with black truffles, crispy bacon and mashed potatoes. The extensive wine list includes lots of Czech choices, and since you’ll want to walk the picturesque streets back to your hotel, indulge in dessert.Kavárna Obecní DumThis grand café, located on the ground floor of the landmark Municipal House, evokes old-world Europe. The Art Nouveau interior has been beautifully refurbished with antique chandeliers and mahogany tables, and the arched windows open onto the sidewalk, where food is served in summer. The Czech cuisine is good, but you come here for the historic atmosphere. Be sure to see the rest of the building for its frescoes.Note: There are two other restaurants in this building. The French one on the ground floor has a similarly fabulous interior (which, unfortunately, is too brightly lit much of the time) and serves food that is not only grossly overpriced but also fails to live up to the atmosphere. There’s also a Czech pub in the basem*nt where inspirations from Czech folklore abound by way of carved wooden booths, folk-art stenciling, and social realist murals. Utterly transporting, the pub is a good option if you’re attending a performance in the concert hall later on and want to try some authentic Czech food beforehand.Klasterni Pivovar StrahovIdeal for a break during a castle tour, this beer house is located in the Strahov Monastery complex.La Dégustation Bohême BourgeoiseFrom the moment you enter the dimly-lit hushed dining room of La Dégustation, you understand that this restaurant stands gloriously apart from the rest of Prague’s offerings. The dark wood–lined dining room with cozy banquette seating along the walls leads to an open kitchen full of massive pots, pans and black-and-white tiles. A line of chefs in starched whites stand ready and the lovely staff explains the concept behind this restaurant while you nibble on your first innovative and unexpected appetizer (in my case a tiny bite of dark chocolate with salty peanut butter). There are just two tasting menus here, one the dégustation du chef, another the dégustation bohême. The latter is based on traditional Czech cooking but vigorously reinvented, in the style of star chef Ferran Adrià. Meals are lengthy and include seven dishes and seven small-plate amuses.The menu changes often and many locals I spoke to consider La Degustation their top go-to restaurant for very special occasions. My recent meal there included such dishes as a poached local trout served with celery root essence, beetroot and spinach; a freshly smoked duck with red cabbage and a light interpretation of a dumpling; a slice of Prague ham with dried apple and fried eggbread; as well as seven incredibly flavorful amuse-bouches (who knew that a bite of sweet peach, calamari and avocado could be such a revelation?).La Dégustation is definitely a spot for serious foodies, as there’s something almost reverent about the vibe, though nothing pretentious or stuffy thanks to the young, friendly staff who explain each dish with a lot of passion and knowledge. La Degustation is the kind of place where your waiter will press a small gold box into your hand as you leave, saying, “A little something for tomorrow.” And when you open it the next day to find a mini blueberry cake with a glaze that perfectly balances sweet and sour, the joy of La Degustation is prolonged for a few more glorious bites. Reservations are a must.Editors' PicksLa FinestraWalking distance to the Four Seasons, this rustic restaurant with exposed brick provides the ideal relaxed but refined dinner for hotel guests who don't want to travel far. Spectacular specials on a recent visit included an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon panzanella. Between such courses as truffle risotto and a local pork tasting dish, diners are served a palate cleanser like a delectable caramel and lemon sorbet.The in-town sister restaurant of local favorite Aromi, La Finestra has a soaring open dining room clad in red brick and has oak parquet floors; the small tables are pushed close together, imbuing a cozy, intimate ambience. La Finestra is open for lunch, but it’s dinnertime when the space glows in the light of candles (reservations are recommended). As at Aromi, the cuisine is Italian with a focus on steak (get one of the large meat and cheese platters to start). Those tired of Czech beer will also love the extensive wine list.Lahůdky ZemarkAlthough this vintage delicatessen in the heart of Václavské náměstí has been completely renovated, it remains faithful to Czech tradition, offering a wide range of chlebíčky, opened-faced sandwiches, and salads to be eaten while standing at the long metal tables. You can also get just about any Czech liqueur or chocolate at this fine, old-fashioned establishment.Lobkowicz Palace CaféThis little café in the Lobkowicz Palace on the castle hill makes for a perfect quick lunch or coffee stop during sightseeing.LokalManaged by the same group behind Café Savoy and La Dégustation Bohême Bourgeoise, Lokal is styled after a Communist-era beer hall with a long, narrow dining room lined with rustic wooden tables. The menu is posted (in Czech only) on light boxes along the wall, which is covered in yellow-lined wallpaper. The food is unapologetic rich Czech cuisine, with all the sausages, meat and dumplings and dark-beer sauces that go with this image. Some may find it gimmicky, others may wonder at the strange nostalgia for Communist days, but everyone agrees that Lokal is a lot of fun and worth visiting for some beer and a very local atmosphere.Editors' PicksMarina Grosetto RistoranteYes, the river barge right by Manesuv bridge is touristy and the menu is mostly pizza, but this spot has arguably one of the best views of Prague Castle and the Vltava river of any restaurant in town. Plus, prices are reasonable and the pizza is good, so it’s a great choice for a casual dinner when the other side of the river is illuminated. Sit on the far side to avoid having to listen to the 1990s music playing up front.Rainer Maria RilkeNamed after the Austrian poet, this Czech restaurant near the National Theater serves traditional cuisine in a cozy, atmospheric dining room. The owners recommend the rabbit (which they raise themselves), but other options include Czech specialties like spicy beef goulash and roasted smoked pork with cabbage and dumplings.SanshoWith a focus on fresh ingredients, Sansho’s menu changes depending on what is available and in season. The six-course set dinner menu focuses on an inventive pan-Asian cuisine. At lunch, favorites like soft shell crab sliders and salmon sashimi are always available, as are vegan and vegetarian options.SasazuThis hip Asian restaurant-cum-club features great DJs later in the evening.Štrúdl z Taženého TěstaOff-the-beaten-track is an understatement for this gem. Walk through a sea of nondescript paneláky (communist-era public housing), and you will literally stumble upon this hole-in-the-wall. Out of which comes the best strudel in town—maybe even better than your mom’s (assuming you have a mother who bakes mouth-wateringly good traditional Czech strudels). This fabulous and very focused enterprise sells only three items: apple strudel (jablečný), cheese strudel (tvarohový), and poppy seed strudel (makový)—all baked fresh daily onsite. I encourage you to try all three, but poppyseed is definitely my personal favorite. Each strudel is about 12 inches in length, and the final step of powdered sugar dusting will be executed while you wait. (Tip: Take a taxi and have it wait.) Cash only.Terasa at The Golden WellThis elegant bistro boasts one of the best views in the city of red rooftops and towering spires whether diners are seated inside or on the terrace. The restaurant offers classically formal cuisine including oysters and saffron risotto.Editors' PicksTrettersThis New York–style martini bar is located just off the Old Town Square and makes for a good post-dinner stop for a nightcap.U Modré KachnickyThe Blue Duckling, as the name translates, serves up traditional Czech cuisine in a setting of beamed ceilings, Oriental carpets and heavy wood furniture, giving a sense of dining in a 19th-century bourgeois home. Wild-game specialties include flambéed venison with bacon and red-wine sauce, goulash with crackling dumplings and duck prepared a half-dozen ways. Of the two locations, the one in Mala Strana is the more appealing.
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